The Great American Tariff Plan.

If you bought $10,000 worth of goods in a year subject to an average tariff of 20% you now have paid an additional lug of $2000 that has no tangible benefit to you. Big ticket items like foreign cars, stoves and refrigerators are not made here and until such time as they are, we are stuck with large tariffs!

The suppliers are not paying the tariff, you are. The tariff collected is then paid to the US government where it is placed in the General Fund and from there accountability is a blur. The government is hinting that the collected revenues would pay down the national debt or perhaps even a check paid out to individual citizens as a bonus. 

A $1000 bonus paid to all citizens is in the billions range and to date it is reported that the amount collected so far is about $100 Billion. So, the math says we likely we will recover only a small percentage if any at all. 

There is a cure and perhaps a silver lining... stop buying stuff and put a break on your consumerism. Do you really need a new car? The old stove or refrigerator may be dated but still working. Do I really need to build transceiver #60. 

Exempt of course are golf weekends and a white house ballroom makeover as these are simple image necessities that project power and superiority.

Them that know can make things go.

I did find IRF510's for $0.69 cents each at Jameco Electronic plus a 20% tariff.

73's

Pete N6QW

I am more than irritated... I am pissed!

The cupboard was bare, and I needed a stock of real IRF510's. The BoJack IRF510's available at Lauren Bezos OM's shop are already smoked even before you put them in a circuit. So, a trip to Digi Key where I nearly had Cardiac Arrest.

They have real IRF510's at $0.96 cents apiece in quantities of less than 50 pieces. That looks OK. In ordering 10 pieces the total bill was just shy of $20. A mental add up suggested that was too high by a couple of bucks. Yep, old what is his name Tariff added a 20% lug to the bill, or about $1.92. Translated across the new 20M Hybrid Wireless suggests a 20% or more increase to anything bought for the project.

So, tell me why tariffs are a good thing? The idea of buy American is certainly a wave the flag issue. But to what is his name, no American manufacturer is about to start up an IRF510 product line and if they did the unit cost without a tariff would be closer to $2.50 versus $0.96. So, the American manufacturers simply pass on that idea as $2.50 versus $1.16 (with a tariff of 20%) is not competitive. 

Thus, we get squeezed with the higher tariff, no buy American source is developed, where the foreign competition still is the winner, and the tariff ends up in somebody's pocket.

This is not good for us and yet more than 50% of voters chose this path. Today the excuse well I didn't realize that holds no water!

Some progress on Programming the ESP32 for the 20M Hybrid Wireless as shown below. I have coded the sideband select and it compiles but I need to actually wire in the switch for USB LSB selection.

First Prototype 20M Display

Them that know can make things go.

73's

Pete N6QW

Hard to find or costly hardware.

Vacuum Tubes and Tube Sockets are passe'. They are things of the past; stuff found under the tables at sweltering hot ham fests and not useful in an all-solid-state rig. Boom, today those items which were once a dime a dozen now are expensive.

Sticker shock is a great term to describe two 9 pin miniature tube sockets with a shield base. Lauren Bezos OM wants $12 for these two items. Scandalous and Shameful are the two operative words. eBay is no better!

I am now playing the POP card (Pity on Pete), asking anyone from the continental USA that has two of these and would part with them for the shipping costs to 91320.

These sockets used to cost about $2 each and now a 300% markup to $6 each. 

There is a total of 9 Tubes in the 20M Hybrid Wireless Set including five 7 pin miniature sockets (have those), three 9 pin miniature (have one) and one 12 Pin socket for the 12GE5 (have one).

Tubes are an issue as well as I have all of the tubes save for one 12BE6 (transmit mixer). These are going for $12 to $13 on eBay for a questionable previously owned unit. Again, invoking the POP card same deal.

I must admit that the signal reports from the 40M Hybrid Wireless frequently gets high marks on how it sounds. Thus, I am looking to repeat that success with the 20M Hybrid Wireless Set.

Them that know can make things go!

73's

Pete N6QW

A Critical Piece for the 20M Hybrid Wireless!

The Digital LO and BFO remains front and center of the new 20M Hybrid Rig. The mere fact that the circular dials move in unison and with a 3.2-inch display adds a whole new dimension to an exciting quasi-retro rig. 

JF3HZB Analog Type Dial

While the above photo shows a 40M display, the sketch must be modified in several ways for use with the 20M Hybrid Wireless Set.

First and foremost is that an Analog VFO or BFO is not in the mix. I want a homebrew retro rig that will not be scorned because the VFO drifts or that is not on frequency. We have the technology, so let's use it.

The JF3HZB sketch is quite complex and way beyond that needed for "Hello World" or the Miyagi LED On LED Off. The sketch as presented provides for only one selection for the sideband. Thus, the code must identify a switch (high or low) and that switch triggers logic to use one of two BFO frequencies. 

The ESP32 coding while it uses the Arduino IDE to load the code is slightly different than what is used for a Nano or Mega 2560 or even the Uno R3. Thus, the development work.

There could be other info that would want to be displayed, and the only area available is located at very bottom mid-screen. It took some hand hockeying just to get my call sign and LSB displayed on the 40M Hybrid Wireless and so it is a bit more complex. 

In summary, development work is needed to change the range of the LO, to add sideband select and to reserve an area on the display for other info. I envision this is more than a one and done project. 

The sideband select is not as critical for the 20M Hybrid Wireless Set as the norm is USB which works FB for FT-8. But it is a problem on 40M where the norm is LSB. So, solving sideband select opens a big opportunity for FT-8 on the 40M Hybrid Wireless. 

Them that know can make things go.

73's

Pete N6QW

You Never Know what will show up on eBay

Check Out this Listing On

 eBay 

Imagine my surprise as I was lurking through eBay when I spotted this item. For those who will not start a homebrew project unless there are circuit boards that excuse has been removed! Snap this item up as when these are gone... they are gone. It is a proven design, and you have chance to claim, "I homebrewed a rig". (Well almost). 

So back to the homebrew 20M SSB Hybrid Wireless set. Long ago I realized homebrewing a rig had a lot to do with real estate. Whether it is the space allocation on the front panel or the area needed for the circuitry... it is all about the real estate availability. 

When I built the 20M Shirt Pocket SSB Transceiver the front panel (2X2 inches) was the minimum size needed to fit the I/O. Control knobs, jacks and switches all needed space and after an exhaustive evaluation, the 2X2 inches was the minimum. Fat Fingers also had a "finger" in that pie!

But also important is the physical arrangement of the tubes (or devices) that minimizes the wiring while at the same time considers unwanted feedback paths. The last thing you do is drill holes and the 1st thing is some paper layouts of the devices. In the new 20M rig, there is a bit of cheating based on tribal knowledge and having built the 40M version.

The layout above was developed over a 60-year period from the 1st metal plate that was used for the 40M version to the latest 20M Hybrid Wireless. 

There is some "Tribal Knowledge" to soak in and I will try to point that out to you. 

1. The right and left sides of the photo are essentially inputs and outputs. On the left side we have the Microphone Input (12AU7) and Audio Output from 1/2 of the 12AX7 where the other 1/2 is also the Product Detector.

2. On the right side the output from the 12BE6 Transmit Mixer goes to a Band Pass Filter and on to the Driver stage which I am keeping as Solid State. The signal coming from the Antenna Relay (not shown) passes on to a 2nd Band Pass Filter which is ahead of the 12BA6 Receiver RF Amplifier stage. One Band Pass Filter could be used and relay switched between these two parts of the circuit, but I used two to minimize any possibility of feedback paths.

[Experience with the early Bitx20 showed how using a common relay could create a feedback path. Others saw this same problem.]

3. Our Digital Electronics (not shown) provide a LO and BFO signal. The LO goes to the 6BE6 Receiver Mixer and the 12BE6 Transmit Mixer. Thus, an LO port to the right of the Heathkit Filter and midway between the 6BE6 and the 12BE6 would provide an optimal location. BTW we found that in the 40M Hybrid Wireless that a ferrite core homebrew 2.5 MHy Plate Choke could also be used as a matching transformer to the 50 Ohm Band Pass Filter.

4. The BFO signal is supplied to the 6JH8 Balanced Modulator on Transmit and the 12AX7 Product Detector on Receive. Thus, a BFO Port to the left of the Heathkit filter and mid-way between the 12AX7 and 6JH8 is a good location. Some distance from and a bit of shielding is needed for this port, so the Filter is not picking up the BFO signal.

5. In this design and layout only one tube is used on both transmit and receive. That tube is the 12BZ6, the 1st IF amp stage. A small value Silver Mica cap samples the signal on the plate of the 12BZ6 and that feeds the 12BE6 which is the transmit mixer. Thus, the need to have the 12BZ6 and the 12BE6 in close proximity.

A nightmare in the 40M wireless was to not think about space under the chassis for terminal strips to hold parts. Allow some extra space around tube sockets and mounted parts that provide anchor points for 4, 5 and 6 lug terminal strips.

With this 1st sketch of a layout the next step is to place actual part sizes on a new sheet of paper. I have some metal washers that are the same size as 7 pin and 9 pin tube sockets.  So, it is a simple matter to draw around the washers to represent the tube locations. The ARC-5 IF cans are quite larges and I used a cardboard cutout to represent their footprint. 

The Heathkit filter I have is an older and larger footprint than the one shown in yesterday's blog. I need to absolutely verify that it works and if OK will use it in this rig. The larger sizes simply add an air of authenticity and aura of an older wireless set built with some parts from 2025.

The Digital LO with some in-depth thought can be a module mounted to the front panel and that avoids having to provide horizontal real estate. 

Front panel controls would include the Audio, Mic Gain, RF Gain and Carrier Balance. Switches would include USB/LSB select, MOX, as well as Mic Input and Headphone output. Since the Driver will be broad band solid state the 12GE5 Final Amp tuning control will be a Tune Cap using a fixed Loading Cap like in the Hallicrafters SR-160. The Heathkit Meter could be used for TFMS (Tune For Maximum Smoke).

My seat of the pants says a 12X12 inch chassis using an aluminum base plate of that size. Thank you, Lauren Bezos, as your OM sells 1/16-inch plate in that size. BTW get the 3003 or 5052 type aluminum which is easily bent, shaped and drilled. The 6061 is much more difficult to work without heat treating it first. 

The back apron should include space for an 11Pin "octal type" power plug, BNC antenna connectors, RCA jacks, bias pot adjustment, ground lug and fuse for the DC circuits.

Them that know can make things go.

73's

Pete N6QW

New 20M SSB Hybrid Wireless Rig Topology.

Following the decision to start another Hybrid SSB rig, it might be well to elaborate on some of the details. The first detail entails refining some of the features of the original 40M Hybrid Wireless Rig.

First is the change to 20M and the addition of AGC. Sure, I could ride the RF Gain Control, but at this stage of life I want something a bit more "automatic". A big development effort involves modifying the JF3HZB sketch to include sideband selection. Finally, is to add a tube final so you would have about 25 to 30 watts at the output. The Driver and Audio Amp would remain solid-state and likewise for the Digital LO and BFO.

The Devices would include the following:

12BA6   Receiver RF Amp

6BE6     Receiver Mixer

12BZ6   1st IF Amp

12BA6   2nd IF Amp

12AX7   Product Detector and Audio Pre-Amp

12AU7   Microphone Amp

6JH8     Balanced Modulator

12BE6    Transmit Mixer

12GE5    Transmit Final

2N2222A + 2N3053 Transmit Driver Stage

2N3904 + LM380 Audio Amp Stage

ESP32 + Si5351 for the LO and BFO

The circuitry would also employ two separate Band Pass Filters to simplify the RF switching. An interesting tidbit is that only one tube is common for both Transmit and Receive and that vacuum tube is the 12BZ6 which is the 1st IF Amp stage. 

I have a Heathkit 3.395 MHz Crystal Filter and am looking to use that unit. This also offers the opportunity for building the rig for 17M. There is such a filter on eBay right now for $22. This is competitive with the cost of a homebrew filter and avoids the use of the questionable Nano VNA's.

The power source would be the Heathkit HP-23 supply + a 12VDC @ 5 Amps supply for the Filaments and the Solid-State Devices.

Them that know can make things go.

73's

Pete N6QW

A Crossroads and a Decision!

Making some decisions is not as simple as flipping a coin and acquiescing to some basic paradigm. If it's heads, I will do this and if tails I do that.

The critical decision is to stop ever again from buying some run-down boat anchor in hopes of making a score on a resale and only concentrate my efforts on new construction. The 3rd dimension is my age, as the time horizon for new projects is growing much smaller. Sounds like I have made that decision in just trying to frame the scope of the issue.

This may be the one last project, so it best be good. Yesterday I fired up two rigs, the first being the Transcom SBT3 and the second my homebrew Hybrid Wireless with the JF3HZB dial. Side by side and switching only the antenna between the rigs, the Hybrid Wireless won by a huge margin. 

A Homebrew Tube SSB Transceiver from Isreal

[Several years ago, I spotted this rig from a ham in Isreal, and he was kind enough to respond to my email. His finished rig is a work of art. Note the Styrofoam thermal insulation around the VFO Box.  The IF Transformers are made from ARC-5 parts. I have three such transformer cans, where two are for the IF and one for the Balanced Modulator. These cans were a gift from N2CQR. The Filter is an 8 pole 9 MHz unit from KVG... Yep, have one of those too.]

Looking in the junk box, I have more than enough parts to build a 2nd Hybrid Wireless only this one on 20M. Needless to say, this one will also have the JF3HZB dial. Time to dust off those Greenlee chassis punches! 

This immediately raises the specter of why Hybrid versus all solid state. In part, the answer is that vacuum tube rigs is the place where I started and perhaps only fitting that tubes would be one of the final projects. I might even be able to fit in the 8042 finals I bought for the Transcom SBT3.

I located a local source for aluminum plate that has small cut-off pieces for sale and so that is another incentive for some metal bashing and chassis builds.

Bottom line: Stick to well-known topologies and concentrate on performance.

73's

Pete N6QW